Inspect · Grade · Price · Deliver
Buying a Shipping Container
A container is a 25-year asset when the box is sound — and an expensive rust problem when it is not. The difference is visible in a fifteen-minute inspection that most buyers never do.
This guide covers the inspection point by point, where to buy, and the red flags that end a deal. Prices for what you should expect to pay are in the price guide.
What should you inspect before buying a container?
1. Roof. Climb up or use a ladder. Dents pool water, pooled water becomes rust-through. Minor dishing is normal; standing-water depressions are not.
2. Door gaskets. The daylight test: step inside, have someone close both doors. Total darkness = sound seals. Any sliver of light is a water path — gaskets are replaceable (~$100–200) but priced into your offer.
3. Floor. 28 mm marine plywood should feel solid everywhere. Probe soft spots, look for delamination at the edges, and treat unexplained stains as chemical spills until proven otherwise — floors are pesticide-treated and spill history matters if you will store food or convert to living space.
4. Corner castings. The eight cast-steel corners take every lifting and stacking load. Cracks or torn welds around them are structural — reject the unit.
5. CSC plate. Riveted to the left door. Present and legible for any purchase; in-date (or recently inspected) if the box will ever ship. Details in the ISO standards guide.
6. Rust type. Surface rust on Corten steel is cosmetic and normal. Scale rust that flakes off in sheets, or any spot you can push a screwdriver through, is structural.
Where should you buy a shipping container?
Port depots: the deepest supply and lowest prices, but variable service — you may inspect in a yard queue. Best value if you live within ~100 miles of a port.
National dealers: higher prices, but graded inventory, photos of the actual unit, warranties and arranged delivery. The premium buys predictability.
Marketplaces and auctions: the cheapest listings and the most as-is risk. Fine for experienced buyers who inspect in person; risky for first-timers.
Whoever sells, insist on photos of the specific unit — not stock images — or an in-person inspection before paying.
Picking the grade
Match the grade to the job, not the budget to the best box. Static storage needs wind-and-water-tight; ocean shipping needs cargo-worthy with a valid CSC; conversions and homes justify one-trip, because you will spend more fixing an old box’s floor and rust than the grade difference costs. The full grade ladder — one-trip, IICL, CW, WWT, as-is — is decoded in the grades guide.
Delivery: plan it before you pay
Confirm your site can physically take delivery before money moves: a 40 ft tilt-bed drop needs roughly 30 m of straight approach and 5 m overhead. Get the delivery quote in writing with the purchase — $150–500 locally is normal — and see moving a shipping container for method and clearance details.
Red flags that end the deal
No CSC plate on a unit sold as shipping-capable. Scale rust in sheets on rails or roof. Cracked corner castings or repaired welds around them. Chemical odours from the floor. A seller who refuses inspection or shows only stock photos. Prices far below the ranges in the price table — in this market, a bargain that looks too good usually smells like one too.
Frequently asked questions
What should I look for when buying a shipping container?
Six things: roof dents that pool water, door gaskets (daylight test from inside), floor delamination and chemical stains, cracked corner castings, a valid CSC plate, and scale rust versus harmless surface rust. Any structural failure — castings, rust-through — means walk away.
Is it better to buy a one-trip or used container?
One-trip for conversions, homes and anything long-term — it costs 1.6–2× a used cargo-worthy unit but arrives with a fresh floor, sound seals and 25+ years of life. Used CW or WWT wins for plain storage, where the 2× saving outruns the cosmetic difference.
Can I inspect a container before buying?
Any reputable depot or dealer allows it, and you should insist — in person, or at minimum dated photos of the specific unit and its CSC plate. Refusal to allow inspection is itself the strongest red flag in the purchase.
Do I need a CSC plate on my container?
For international shipping, yes — no valid CSC safety approval, no booking. For static storage on your own land the plate is legally irrelevant, but its absence often means the unit was retired for structural reasons, so ask why it is missing.
How long does a shipping container last?
About 10–15 years in ocean service, then 25+ more in static use if the roof drains and rust is touched up. A sound used container bought for storage will typically outlast its owner’s need for it.